Home > Travel > Day 9 – Back to Temboche

Day 9 – Back to Temboche

Today we supposed to reach Temboche again. It’s more than 10 km trek up and down, starting in the mountains and finishing below tree line so in terms of altitude it is a significant drop. As I soon realized we won’t go through Dingboche as we came up but through Pangboche. I am getting little confused by the names [something]boche. I hope I got the name of the village right.


We left Lobuche early morning with relatively nice weather. We saw the surrounding mountains, especially Nuptze, Pumori and Ama Dablam. Scenery was the kind you used to see on National Geographic photos or on Discovery Channel. Most of the first part of today’s trek we were alone. Here and there we met some sherpas carrying their load. Soon we reached a place with many stone monuments. These are all built in memory of people who died trying to summit Everest. One of the biggest ones belongs to memory of Babu Chiri Sherpa. He holds a record of sleeping 22 hrs on summit of Everest without an oxygen, also record for fastest climb to the peak. Unfortunately he died in some freaking accident which shouldn’t have happened if he was a little bit more careful. Anyway, I found out that chasing records among sherpas increases the competition and builds the name. There is for example a sherpa who summit Everest 20 times!!! However most of those that hold some kind of record are dead.


After the monument place we descend to Thukla. It was fairly easy. I remember how I climbed it at the edge of exhaustion in snow and wind. This was so much easier. Now we started to meet even more sherpas with yaks. We actually saw lots of them. Many headed to Everest base camp to bring down the equipment from expedition that just finished.


We continued our walk in the valley which looked like from movie. We saw lots of yaks eating the greenery also with some very cute baby yaks. i made plenty of photos from this part of the trek. scenery was just amazing. As we got closer to Pangboche my left eye started to hurt a lot. Not sure if it was from pressure, wind or whatever it hurt a lot and on every step I felt like somebody is stiking a huge needle into it. We stopped at one tea house for a tea. I left my eye closed all the time but pain didn’t go away. So before we head of again I took my scarf and bind it over my eye like a pirate. I must have looked scary because I noticed many children were turning away from me for the rest of the trek. Anyway it helped. Wind didn’t affect it, I didn’t really turn my eyeball at all and eye was nice and warm covered by scarf. But walking with one eye only became a little tricky especially when there is a narrow path with deep valley on your blind side. But I got used to it after a while and felt pretty comfortable. And eye didn’t hurt any more so that was important. Unfortunately I don’t have too many photos from this section since I lost my “3D” view.


Soon we stopped for a snack at village called Somare. From there I was already able to spot Tengboche and its monastery on the horizon. It’s still fair bit of walk and I remember we have to climb up quite a way. So far the weather was quite nice. I was hoping to have a nice sunrise experience next morning since last time we were here it didn’t hppen due to thick cloud cover. By the time we reached Tengboche it got cloudy again and whole horizon was behind the clouds too. I just hope next morning it clears up.


This time we got room in different lodge, better than first one. Owner used to be a monk. Wherever he walked he always repeated “Oh mani padme um”. I freshed up and had a shower after 3-4 days. I don’t even remember but it felt good. Had a quick snack and headed to the monastery again. There was a prayer time but obviously not mandatory because there were only few monks praying. This time I managed to get few shots but it was quite dark for any reasonable photography, Monasteries are quite cold places therefore it was a nice touch when young monk offered Tibetan tea to each visitor there, Nice and hot and on the sweet side.


After leaving monastery there was nothing much to do. Light was bad for photography, horizon cloud covered so I decided to slip in my sleeping bag and have a good rest. Tomorrow’s aim is Namche Bazar.

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